Aixperiences: European Heritage Days 2025 in Aix — what to see (and how not to get lost)

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European Heritage Days (Journées européennes du patrimoine) land in Aix-en-Provence Fri–Sun, Sept 19–21, 2025. Doors fling open, secret corners are revealed, and you can finally say “Ah, that’s what’s behind that pretty façade.” This year’s Aix theme is perfectly on-brand for us: “Sur les pas de Paul Cezanne: balades dans la campagne aixoise,” dovetailing with the big Cezanne au Jas de Bouffan exhibition. Translation: lots of Cézanne, lots of bastides, and lots of excuses to wear comfy shoes. (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

Below are five can’t-miss highlights for the weekend. I grouped in a few practical notes (times, bookings, access) so you can actually make it to the right door at the right hour—learned the hard way, so you don’t have to. 🙃

1) Musée Granet + a surprise dance pop-up (GUID)

Why go: It’s the heart of Cézanne-year programming, and it’s staging playful happenings all weekend.
When & what:
• Sat 20/9 from 10:00 — live body & clothes painting around Cézanne’s Joueurs de Cartes.
• Sun 21/9 at 15:00 & 17:00 — the GUID (Ballet Preljocaj’s street-savvy troupe) performs at Collège Mignet.
Cost: The Saturday animation is free after museum admission; the Sunday GUID shows are free with limited capacity.
Where: Musée Granet (Place Saint-Jean de Malte); GUID shows at Collège Mignet (rue Cardinale). (museegranet-aixenprovence.fr)

Local tip: Most of this is a short stroll from Cours Mirabeau. If you’re more bus-than-boots, Ligne 3 serves the historic core around Granet. (Aixenbus)

2) Hôtel de Caumont — guided “behind-the-salons” visits

Why go: One of Aix’s most elegant 18th-century hôtels particuliers opens its gilded doors for a history-first visit (separate from the temporary exhibition).
When: Sat 20/9 & Sun 21/9, 09:30–10:30 (French, limited slots).
Cost & booking: €7, reservation required; does not include the current art show.
Where: 3 rue Joseph-Cabassol (2–5 min from 4 Dauphins stop). (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

Local tip: It sells out. Book first, coffee second. Your future self will thank you. (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

3) Pavillon de Vendôme — free entry, circus micro-shows & night mapping

Why go: Garden-framed baroque beauty plus 10-minute contemporary-circus bursts and an evening video-mapping on the façade.
When: Museum free 10:00–18:00 both days.
Sat 20/9 program:
• 11:00 & 17:00 — Tarzana (trapèze)
• 11:30 & 17:30 — How much we carry? (perche géante) — on reservation
• 19:30–22:00 — “Aix-en-Eaux” mapping on the façade (part of Sextius Demain)
Plus: Guided visits of “L’expo des expos” Sat 11:45/14:30/16:00; Sun 11:45/14:30/16:30.
Where: 13 rue de la Molle. (Mairie d'Aix-en-Provence)

Getting there: A short walk from the center; the Vendôme / Les Thermes area is served by central bus lines (e.g., Ligne 3). (Moovit)

4) Musée du Vieil Aix — exceptional access to the underground caves

Why go: Rare, small-group visits to the caves under the Hôtel d’Estienne de Saint-Jean—catnip for history nerds.
When:
• Sat 20/9 at 15:00 & 16:30
• Sun 21/9 at 10:00, 11:30, 14:00, 15:30, 16:30
Booking: Mandatory (phone or email). Groups of 8, ~45 minutes.
Where: 17 rue Gaston de Saporta (just behind the cathedral). (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

Local tip: This one’s tiny-capacity. If you only pre-book one thing this weekend, make it this. (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

5) Site-Mémorial du Camp des Milles — free all weekend

Why go: A powerful, must-see memorial in a former brickworks/internment camp, with the Joann Sfar temporary exhibition.
When & cost: Sat–Sun 10:00–19:00 (last entry 17:30), free for Heritage Days. No reservation needed for self-guided visits; guided tours bookable.
Getting there: From center-city Rotonde, take Bus 4 on Sat (Bus 18 on Sunday) to Gare des Milles / Camp des Milles; allow ~20 minutes. Address: 40 chemin de la Badesse. (campdesmilles.org)

Bonus for culture-collectors

  • Pavillon Noir (Ballet Preljocaj): free guided architecture tours Sat–Sun 14:00–17:00 (hourly); the GUID dance pop-ups Sunday 15:00 & 17:00 at Collège Mignet. Free; tours by reservation. (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

  • Cité du Livre (Bibliothèque & Archives Michel-Vovelle): Open house Sat 10:00–18:00, guided visits at 10:30, 14:00, 16:00, a family treasure hunt (sign-up required), and Fri 19/9 18:30 talk on Zola (Les Trois Villes). Great for lit lovers and curious families. (Mairie d'Aix-en-Provence)

Quick game plan (because choice paralysis is real)

  • Friday evening (19/9): Inauguration on Place Verdun with Cézanne/Zola joutes oratoires. It’s nerdy, it’s fun, and it’s free. (Mairie d'Aix-en-Provence)

  • Saturday (20/9): Granet in the morning; Pavillon de Vendôme circus + mapping in the evening. Slot in Caumont 9:30 if you nab a ticket. (museegranet-aixenprovence.fr)

  • Sunday (21/9): Vieil Aix caves (booked!), then Camp des Milles (free) for the afternoon. (Aix en Provence - Office de Tourisme)

Small print that saves headaches

If you hit any of these, drop a line in the comments with your favorite moment (and your best “tu/vous” mishap of the day). I’ll be the one nodding too enthusiastically, clutching a program, and pretending I meant to end up in the wrong courtyard. Bon week-end !