Étranger Things: Halloween in France — cute pumpkins, solemn chrysanthemums, and a very French “boo”

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If you grew up with full-scale haunted yards and Costco-sized candy bags, French Halloween will feel… familiar but delightfully sideways. It’s a young tradition here (really only since the 1990s), nested right next to something much older and quieter: La Toussaint on November 1, a public holiday when families place flowers—especially chrysanthemums—on graves. Halloween is the cheeky neighbor borrowing sugar; Toussaint is the grand-mère who brought the cake. (French Moments)

The big picture (and why it’s different)

  • Halloween ≠ Toussaint. Oct 31 is costumes and candy (mostly for kids); Nov 1 (Toussaint) is time off, family visits to cemeteries, and a reflective mood. Many schools are on Vacances de la Toussaint for ~2 weeks around this date, so kids are actually available to roam. (French Moments)

  • “Imported,” but now local-ish. The 1990s marketing push filled the fall party gap between la rentrée and Noël. Today you’ll see trick-or-treating mostly in city centers, organized by neighborhoods, Mairies, or shops. (French Moments)

Tiny French details Americans find fascinating

  • The phrase at the door: instead of “Trick or treat,” kids say « Des bonbons ou un sort ! » (“Sweets or a spell!”). Some tiny humans will simply whisper « des bonbons, s’il vous plaît » because… they’re French and polite. (France Today)

  • Apartment life logistics. Many buildings have digicodes/interphones—so trick-or-treat routes are often pre-organized streets or shop-lined zones. If your intercom never rings on Oct 31, that’s (often) why.

  • Spooky > cute. Costumes tend to lean witch/ghost/vampire more than “football zombie astronaut pirate mash-up.” Adults keep the fun for soirées; kids get the candy.

  • Candy etiquette. Mixed bags are heavy on Haribo-style gummies. If you’re out, a small sign is common: « Pas de bonbons, merci » (no treats today).

  • Chrysanthemum PSA. Beautiful! But in France they’re strongly linked to mourning/Toussaint. Do not show up to a dinner party with a big pot of chrysanths unless you’re trying to terrify your host more than your vampire cape. (French Moments)

  • The vibe flip at midnight. Oct 31 is orange-and-black; Nov 1 is calm, respectful—cemeteries bloom with color, families visit, candles glow. It’s genuinely moving. (French Moments)

How to Halloween like a local (Aix/Provence edition works too)

  1. Stick to kid-friendly late afternoon/early evening. Many rounds finish by 20:00 out of courtesy.

  2. Target shop streets. Look for windows with little bats or signs; some municipalities post a route.

  3. Bring small change? Not needed—only candy.

  4. Mind the bell. Don’t force intercom doors; avoid gated courtyards unless clearly invited.

  5. November 1 respect. If you pass a cemetery or see flower stands, that’s Toussaint—no woo-woo screams, just bonjour and a smile. (You’ll see mountains of chrysanthemums on sale.) (French Moments)

Quick history & context (cocktail-party smart)

  • Halloween’s French boom arrived in the late 1990s via global brands; it dipped, then resurfaced as towns organized family events. Mixed feelings persist—many enjoy the fun, some shrug—but participation keeps growing. (French Moments)

  • Nov 1 (Toussaint) is a public holiday; Nov 2 is traditionally the Jour des Morts (less observed), which explains those flower markets near cemeteries. (French Moments)

Pocket French: phrases & signs you’ll actually see

  • « Des bonbons ou un sort ! » — Trick or treat! (lit. “Candy or a spell!”) (France Today)

  • « On peut passer ? » — Can we come by?

  • « Merci, bonne soirée ! » — Thanks, have a nice evening!

  • « Pas de bonbons, merci » — No treats today, thanks.

  • « Soirée déguisée » — Costume party.

  • « Vacances de la Toussaint » — All Saints’ school holidays. (Expatica)

Vocab (with the tiny cultural gotchas)

  • une citrouille / un potimarron / une courge — pumpkin family (markets label them precisely; carving is less common but growing).

  • un déguisement — costume (usually spooky).

  • un interphone / un digicode — apartment entry systems (why kids often stick to street-level shops).

  • des bonbons — candy (gummies rule).

  • la Toussaint — Nov 1 holiday for all saints. (French Moments)

  • un chrysanthème — chrysanthemum (linked to cemeteries; don’t gift casually in late October). (French Moments)

Where to read more (curated, promise)

  • Halloween’s bumpy French journey & today’s customs. (French Moments)

  • Toussaint explained; why chrysanthemums everywhere. (French Moments)

  • What kids say at the door. (France Today)

  • School holiday rhythm (Vacances de la Toussaint). (Expatica)

Tips for French learners (A1 → Advanced)

A1: Memorize two lines: « Des bonbons ou un sort ! » and « Merci, bonne soirée ! » Practice your liaison in bonsoirée.
A2: Do a mini-dialogue at the door: —Des bonbons ou un sort ? —Oh là là ! Voilà pour vous. —Merci ! Au revoir et bonne soirée !
B1: Write a 6-sentence note for your building: « Nous participons à Halloween ce soir, vous pouvez sonner entre 17h30 et 19h30. »
B2: Compare Halloween and Toussaint in 150 words using connectors (cependant, tandis que, en revanche).
C1/C2: Short op-ed: « Halloween, américanisation ou nouvelle sociabilité de quartier ? » Use cultural references, cite Toussaint practices.

Your turn 👇

How does your town handle Oct 31? Do kids actually ring interphones, or do shops lead the charge? Post your story, a photo, or a tip for newcomers. Bonus points if you drop a mini-dialogue for A1/A2 learners—or a B2/C1 comparison of Halloween vs. Toussaint. Bienvenue in the comments, and merci d’avance for keeping it kind and community-minded!

P.S. If you’re bringing flowers to a friend this week, maybe pick dahlias or roses. Save the chrysanths for Toussaint and you’ll look instantly more Aixois(e). You’ll be our chou chou either way.

Location: France

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