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Aixperiences: La Calendale — the Provençal arc of Christmas (Dec 4 → Feb 2), day-by-day

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La Calendale Provençal

If Christmas in Provence were a mini-series, La Calendale would be the full season order: a 60-day arc beginning on 4 December (Sainte-Barbe) and wrapping on 2 February (Chandeleur)—with cliffhangers like wheat that (hopefully) sprouts straight, a fire-blessed Yule log, a supper that’s humble yet rule-bound, shepherds at midnight mass, 13 desserts (yes, thirteen), kings, beans, brioches, and crêpes. The regional tourism board even calls it “60 days of festivities,” which feels right when your living room is 70% crèche and 30% sofa. (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Tourisme)

Below is your curated guide to the whole run—every celebrated day in the Calendale, with what it means, what you’ll see in Provence (and around Aix), and how to join in with grace.

4 Dec — Sainte-Barbe (Saint Barbara): sowing the year to come

The opener! Provençaux sprout wheat (or lentils) in three little saucers lined with cotton—three for the Trinity. If the blades stand tall and green by Christmas, prosperity is on the way (if they flop, water them… and perhaps the houseplants). These saucers join the table on Christmas Eve, then sit near the crèche through Epiphany before being planted outside. You’ll see pre-packed “blé de la Sainte-Barbe” kits in many shops. (Wikipedia)

Early-mid Dec — Advent Sundays, Santons, and crèches come alive

Across Provence, families build Provençal crèches with santons—little clay villagers and tradesfolk—while towns host santon fairs (Marseille’s legendary Foire aux Santons runs mid-Nov → late Dec/early Jan). If you’re near Aix, detour to Marseille’s Vieux-Port stalls to see santonniers’ work (and try not to adopt an entire village). Many communities stage Pastorales (Nativity plays), especially the beloved Pastorale Maurel in Provençal, through December and January. (Office de Tourisme de Marseille)

8 Dec — Immaculate Conception (lights, hymns, and quiet build-up)

While especially marked in Lyon, the date punctuates Advent across the South. In Provence it’s a gentle nudge: crèches are growing, santons are multiplying, and your wheat is—fingers crossed—upright. (Tip: rotate the saucers so the stalks grow straight. Science? Magic? Provence says yes.)

13 Dec — Sainte-Luce (Saint Lucy): “the days get longer”

“À la Sainte-Luce, le jour avance du saut d’une puce.” In folk memory this was when days “noticeably” lengthen. It’s a good pretext to light a few extra candles and check that the pompe à l’huile recipe is ready for prime time with the 13 desserts. (Recipe research = taste testing. Courage.)

21–22 Dec — Winter Solstice: candles, carols, and finishing touches

Church concerts, village lights, and last details for the crèche. If you’re hunting figures, look for Pistachié and Bartoumièu, comic stalwarts of many Provençal pastorales.

24 Dec — Christmas Eve: cacho-fio, Gros Souper, Midnight Mass & le pastrage

The heart of it. At dusk some families enact the cacho-fio, the Provençal Yule-log rite: the eldest and youngest carry a fruit-wood log three times around the table; the grandfather sets it in the hearth, sprinkles it with mulled wine, and recites blessings in Provençal. Then comes the Gros Souper: seven meatless dishes (symbolic and seasonal) meticulously laid on a table dressed with three white cloths, three candles, and your Sainte-Barbe wheat—protocols matter here, even if the menu is simple. Dessert is… thirteen different sweets (see below). After supper, many head to Midnight Mass where, in numerous villages, shepherds process with tambourin and galoubet for le pastrage, presenting a newborn lamb at the crèche. Les Baux, Arles and other Crau/Camargue parishes are classic places to witness it. (Provence Plaisirs)

The 13 Desserts (Les treize desserts)

Lists vary by town and grandma (never argue with either), but you’ll nearly always find: the four “beggars” (walnuts, almonds, raisins, dried figs), dates, pompe à l’huile (olive-oil brioche perfumed with orange-flower), nougat (white and black), candied fruit (hello, calissons d’Aix often join), fresh fruit (oranges/mandarins, sometimes “Christmas melon”), quince paste, oreillettes… The number is fixed; the lineup is local. Some traditions keep the platters on the table three days, through Dec 27. (Wikipedia)

25 Dec — Christmas Day (Noël)

A quieter family day in Provence, with time to visit larger crèches or living nativity scenes in neighboring towns. If you did Midnight Mass, espresso is your friend. (So is leftover nougat.)

26 Dec — Saint Stephen (fêtes des bergers in some areas)

Not a public holiday in France, but in parts of Provence this is a natural extension of the shepherds’ season; some parishes and villages schedule the Pastrage or “Shepherds’ Mass” not at midnight on the 24th but during the Twelve Days or even in January to suit flocks and families. (Wikipedia)

27 Dec — Saint John: wine lore & friendly toasts

In several Provençal communities you’ll hear of vin cuit or wine blessings linked to St-Jean within the holiday octave. It’s a local-customs day—peek at village programs.

31 Dec — Saint-Sylvestre (New Year’s Eve)

More national than specifically Provençal: festive dinners, oysters and bubbly if that’s your lane, and fireworks where permitted. Around here you may spot navettes and croquembouche elbowing for space with the ever-present pompe scraps (team orange-flower forever).

1 Jan — Jour de l’An (New Year’s Day)

“Bonne année, bonne santé !” A day for family calls, vœux, and—because this is Provence—maybe a brisk walk in the mistral to reset the nougat ratio.

6 Jan (or the first Sunday of January) — Épiphanie: galettes and gâteaux des rois

France goes all-in on Epiphany the whole month: Galette des rois (puff pastry + frangipane) dominates the North, while Provence favors the brioche ring—gâteau des rois—crowned with candied fruit. A tiny fève (trinket) hides inside; whoever finds it is crowned king or queen and buys the next cake (congratulations/condolences). Bakeries roll these out from early January to mid-month. (Perfectly Provence)

Mid-January — Pastorales in full swing

January is prime time to catch a Pastorale Maurel—five acts, big heart, and plenty of Provençal banter—or other local pastorales. Many towns host performances across January, often by community troupes. Don’t worry if you miss a few dialect jokes; the music and costumes carry you. (Office de Tourisme de Marseille)

17 Jan — Saint Antoine Abbé: blessing of animals

Guardian of farm and companion animals, Saint Antoine inspires parish blessings across the South—expect leads, leashes, a few horses, and unlimited photo ops. If you’re near Crau/Camargue, it pairs beautifully with sheep culture and transhumance traditions. (Paroisse Saint-Antoine des Quinze-Vingts)

Late Jan — Last pastorales & crèche tours

Many crèche circuits run through January; some museums and villages keep displays until Chandeleur. If your crèche has sprawled into the kitchen, you are doing great.

2 Feb — Chandeleur (Candlemas): candles & crêpes, the finale

Forty days after Christmas, the arc closes with Chandeleur, marking the Presentation of Jesus in the Temple—long associated with blessing candles and, in France, flipping crêpes (their golden round shape hints at returning light). In Marseille, early-morning rites at Abbaye Saint-Victor are iconic; at home, there’s the beloved coin-in-hand crêpe flip for good fortune. Many churches keep the crèche up until today—then the figurines go to sleep, and your wheat can finally head outdoors. (Wikipedia)

Practical “how-to” for celebrating La Calendale in/near Aix

  • Plant Sainte-Barbe wheat (Dec 4): 3 saucers, damp cotton, a handful of wheat or lentils; keep bright but not scorching; rotate for straight stalks. Move them to your table on Christmas Eve. (Wikipedia)

  • Build a Provençal crèche: Start small (Holy Family + a few villagers). Add yearly at the santon fairs (Marseille mid-Nov→early Jan; Arles exhibitions often run into mid-Jan). (Office de Tourisme de Marseille)

  • Try a modest Gros Souper: Aim for 7 meatless dishes (chard/gratin, cod brandade, chickpeas, cardoons, aoli-light…), set 3 cloths, 3 candles, 3 wheat saucers, and finish with your take on the 13 desserts (no one checks; they mostly cheer). (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Tourisme)

  • Where to see a Pastrage: Track Christmas Eve or January “messe des bergers” in Les Baux-de-Provence, Arles, Allauch, and Crau villages. Expect tambourinaires, traditional dress, and a (very alive) lamb. (Les Baux de Provence)

  • Epiphany in Provence: Taste both styles—galette (frangipane) and gâteau des rois (brioche with candied fruit). Beware: collecting fèves is a slippery slope. (Perfectly Provence)

  • Chandeleur in Marseille: Early candles at Saint-Victor + navettes biscuit boats = instant local bragging rights.

“Your turn” — add your story, tip, or photo 📸

What’s your Calendale ritual—first wheat shoot, favorite santon, or the year the fève cracked your molar? Post below with your date, town, and a quick tip for newcomers in/near Aix.

Language-learner prompts (pick your level):

  • A1: Write 3 sentences: “Je fête… (date). Je vois… (santons / bougies / crèche). Je mange… (dessert).”

  • A2: Describe your 13 desserts in 5–6 short sentences. Use il y a, je préfère, parce que.

  • B1: Tell a 120-word story about your first Pastrage or Gros Souper. Past vs. present tenses.

  • B2: Compare Epiphany in Provence vs. your home country (150–200 words). Contrast markers (tandis que, alors que, en revanche).

  • Advanced: Argue (250–300 words) whether Provençal traditions should evolve (e.g., sustainable candles, plant-based menus) while preserving identity; include at least one quote from a local or source.

Sources & further reading

For deep dives and event-hunting:

  • PACA Tourism – Christmas in Provence (overview of the 60-day arc; Gros Souper table customs). (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Tourisme)

  • French Moments – Noël en Provence (Pastrage explained; regional background). (French Moments)

  • Thirteen Desserts (history, symbolism of the “four beggars,” regional variations). (Wikipedia)

  • Marseille Tourism (Pastorales, Foire aux Santons dates/context). (Office de Tourisme de Marseille)

  • Wikipedia – Chandeleur (meaning, candle blessing, crêpe customs; why the crèche may stay up until Feb 2). (Wikipedia)

PS: If you’re in Aix and want a friendly push to join a local outing (Pastorale, santon fair, or crêpe night), say the word—on prépare ça ensemble.

Location: Aix-en-Provence, France

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