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| PHOTO 1 | PHOTO 2 | PHOTO 3 | PHOTO 4 |
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| The peloton prepares to launch beneath the plane trees of the Cours Mirabeau. | The evening ends with trophies, applause and a podium beneath the AVCA arch. | Barriers transform one of France’s grandest promenades into an urban cycling circuit. | Professional cyclists line up at dusk while Aix settles into its summer-evening glow. |
Tonight the Cours Mirabeau becomes a free cycling circuit for the 76th Ronde d’Aix, with races from 18:00 to 22:00.
What is happening on the Cours Mirabeau tonight?
Anyone heading toward the Cours Mirabeau this evening expecting the usual leisurely procession of jewellery, soap, pottery and lavender-scented objects may notice something rather important.
The road has been taken over by extremely fast people wearing Lycra.
Tonight—Friday, July 31, 2026—the Cours Mirabeau becomes the circuit for the 76th Ronde d’Aix, Aix-en-Provence’s annual international cycling criterium.
The event runs from approximately 18:00 until 22:00, and admission is completely free.
I had been wondering why the Cours looked less like its usual elegant self and more as though someone were preparing to launch bicycles through the centre of a particularly beautiful obstacle course. The barriers, banners and closed streets are not signs that Aix has finally lost patience with pedestrians.
They are for one of the city’s biggest summer sporting events.
Tonight’s programme
The evening has been designed as more than a single professional race. This year’s programme brings together young cyclists, regional women racers and professional riders.
18:00 — Young cyclists
The evening begins with races and cycling activities for young competitors from the département.
There is something rather endearing about seeing younger riders using the same circuit that will later carry professionals. It also means families do not need to wait until bedtime before seeing some action.
19:00 — Presentation of the Ronde d’Aix riders
The professional riders are introduced to the public before racing begins in earnest.
This is a good time to arrive for anyone who wants to see the competitors without trying to identify them as they shoot past at alarming speed.
20:15 — Semi-finals
The qualifying races begin, with each semi-final covering ten laps of the short urban circuit.
Unlike a long road race, where the peloton may disappear for an hour and return while everyone is buying sandwiches, a criterium keeps bringing the riders back.
Again.
And again.
And increasingly quickly.
20:45 — Final C
This race is for riders classified from 21st to 32nd place.
21:00 — Final B
The next ten-lap race brings together riders classified from 13th to 20th.
21:15 — Women’s criterium
A ten-lap women’s race gives Provençal female cyclists their own place in tonight’s programme.
21:40 — The final of the Ronde d’Aix
This is the main event, when the evening’s leading riders compete for victory.
22:00 — Podium ceremony
The racing ends with the official presentation on the finish-line podium.
No Nuits d’Aix market tonight
There is one important change for anyone planning a normal Friday-night stroll.
The Nuits d’Aix craft market is not being held on July 31.
The market normally fills the Cours Mirabeau with artisans and stalls from 18:00 to 23:00 during July and August. However, July 31 is one of its official exception dates because the cycling race needs the entire Cours.
The soaps, candles and calissons will return.
Tonight belongs to the bicycles.
Where should I watch?
The circuit runs along the Cours Mirabeau, with spectators gathering behind barriers on both sides.
For the greatest concentration of activity, announcements and excitement, head toward the start-and-finish area. It will also be the busiest section.
For a slightly calmer experience, choose a place farther along the Cours where the riders will pass repeatedly. Standing somewhere near the middle provides plenty of action without necessarily joining the thickest part of the crowd.
Arriving before 19:00 makes sense. It allows time to find a viewing position, see the rider presentation and understand which direction everyone is travelling before the bicycles begin appearing as colourful blurs.
Getting there without becoming part of the race
Part of the centre has been closed to parking and traffic since 11:00, including the Cours Mirabeau between Place du Général-de-Gaulle and Rue Frédéric-Mistral. Several adjoining streets are also affected.
Walking in from the Rotonde, the old town or the gare routière will probably be the simplest approach.
Bus passengers should know that:
M1 and M2 do not serve Rotonde Mirabeau tonight
M1 passengers should use Rotonde
M2 passengers should use Rotonde Bonaparte
Diablines A and C are diverted because the Cours is closed
Check the latest information on the Aixenbus traffic page before leaving.
A warm evening—bring water
Temperatures are expected to remain around 28°C at 19:00, easing toward approximately 25°C by 22:00. A yellow heat warning remains in effect in the Bouches-du-Rhône until midnight.
Water is therefore not merely a charming accessory.
Anyone older, heat-sensitive or planning to stand through several races should consider arriving later, choosing a shaded position beneath the plane trees and taking regular breaks away from the crowd.
Useful French for tonight
La Ronde d’Aix — the Aix cycling race
un critérium cycliste — a cycling criterium
le peloton — the main group of cyclists
un tour — one lap
la demi-finale — the semi-final
la ligne d’arrivée — the finish line
le podium — the winners’ podium
la petite reine — an affectionate French nickname for the bicycle
A1–A2
La course commence à quelle heure ?
What time does the race begin?
B1–B2
Où est le meilleur endroit pour voir passer les coureurs ?
Where is the best place to watch the riders pass?
Advanced
Le peloton va effectuer plusieurs tours du Cours Mirabeau avant la finale.
The peloton will complete several laps of the Cours Mirabeau before the final.
And the French sentence I can now say with confidence:
La Ronde d’Aix passe sur le Cours Mirabeau ce soir.
The Ronde d’Aix is racing along the Cours Mirabeau tonight.
One of those wonderfully Aixois transformations
Most days, the Cours Mirabeau invites people to slow down: sit beneath the plane trees, examine the fountains, order something cold and watch Aix pass by.
Tonight, it asks us to do the opposite.
Everything is about speed—the click of gears, the sudden rush of the peloton, the cheers travelling down the street and the momentary breeze created when a group of cyclists flashes past.
By tomorrow, the barriers will begin disappearing and the Cours will return to being its dignified, café-lined self.
But tonight, for a few hours, Aix is not strolling.
Aix is racing.
Sources for further information
Your turn
Have you watched the Ronde d’Aix before—or accidentally wandered onto the Cours expecting a peaceful market and discovered an international bicycle race instead? Share your best viewing spots and Ronde memories in the comments.
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